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Lima, Peru

2011-12-12T12:19:00.000-08:00

In my two months travelling around South America I didn't meet a single person who had a good thing to say about Peru's capital Lima. Yet as soon as I arrived I fell in love with it. Maybe it was its endless stretch of coastline and awe-inspiring sunsets. Or perhaps it was the booming cultural scene that ensures there is a concert or an art opening every night of the week. Either way, it shouldn't be dismissed as just another hectic over-populated transport hub, but should be appreciated for its vibrancy and creative purpose.

When in doubt, head to the triangular park in the Miraflores district, where there is always something going on. The Lima Zombie Walk recently congregated there. There seem to be nightly concerts there too.

Barranco is the city's arts hub, filled with modern art galleries and design shops. Dedalo arte y artesania (Paseo Saenz Pena 295) is a fantastic indoor market filled with everything from one-off artworks to cutting-edge fashion and design. The courtyard cafe serves delicious food and it's a great place to pick up information on upcoming cultural events in the city.

An unusual architectural find comes in the form of a huge pyramid in the middle of Lima's business district. Huaca Pucllana (General Borgoño cdra. 8) is a pre-inca ceremonial temple which was only re-discovered and unveiled some 20 years ago after it was obscured by a mound with a children's playground on top of it. Today it looks out majestically over the city, contrasted by the skyscrapers rising out of the ground around it.

An absolute must if you're in Lima is a visit to the Circuito Magico del Agua in the Parque de la Reserva. In the evenings, the 13 fountains are subjected to a stunning light show, and some are interactive. The project, which cost $13m, is a magical experience whether you're young or old.

The Amazon Rainforest, Peru

2011-12-06T06:36:00.000-08:00

Any trip to South America is not complete without the obligatory visit to the Amazon Rainforest. Spanning 9 of the continent's countries, the Amazon is a vast expanse of tropical flora and fauna, rich in resources and ecosystems.

I chose to see this intriguing landscape near Puerto Maldonado as opposed to the more popular Iquitos, where the area is described as more "virgin" due to its untouched quality and lack of development. There are a number of lodges you can stay at in the depths of the rainforest; I chose Inkaterra, a 40 minute boat ride away from Puerto Maldonado. Pioneers of ecoluxury, the hotel is 100% carbon neutral and works to preserve the local ecosystem. Everywhere you turn you are confronted by the sights and sounds of the rainforest, a cacophony of noise from the birds, lizards, insects and even giant wild guinea pigs that inhabit the land. Stuff your suitcase with the most powerful repellent you can find, the mosquitos here mean serious business.

Sunset on the river

The Canopy Walkway

Lake Sandoval

Squirrel monkey

Sometimes you have to strain your neck to see the top

The Inkaterra butterfly house

Sacred Valley and Machu Picchu, Peru

2011-12-06T06:03:00.000-08:00

The title of Peru's most famous tourist attraction belongs to the ruined Inca citadel Machu Picchu. Perched 2,430m above sea level, the site has inspired many theories about its origins but its mystical power remains undisputed. Entering the site at 6am as the first visitor of the day was a unique experience, augmented by the shroud of mist hanging over the ruins. There are also many opportunities to climb up mountains for a better view, the most popular route being up Huayna Picchu, the mountain seen here behind the ruins. Persistent rumours abound about the imminent closure of the site due to ongoing damage caused by the 2,500 tourists that visit it every day, so plan that trip sooner rather than later.

Machu Picchu is located above an area known as the Sacred Valley. It is renowned for its exceptional natural beauty and numerous inca ruins. The town of Ollantaytambo is worth visiting for the impressive remains of Inca storehouses jutting out of the sides of mountains. These incredible structures have withstood hundreds of years of earthquakes and weathering.

How to: make coffee and chocolate in Huayapata, Peru

2011-11-20T15:14:00.001-08:00

5 hours from Cusco driving along hairpin bends in the Sacred Valley you arrive at the edge of the Amazon to a region famous for its coffee and cocoa cultivation. I stayed a few days in Huayopata to learn about where these two western addictions originate from.

The coffee plant

The bean between the drying and de-shelling stages

Toasting

Ready for grinding

The cocoa plant

The inside tastes of banana

Dried and ready for toasting

All that remains now is the laborious process of de-shelling then grinding to leave you with the perfect cocoa paste!

Cusco, Peru

2011-11-20T14:57:00.001-08:00

Main square

Often called the centre of the world, Cusco is situated on the site of the capital of the Inca Empire, and hosts hoards of tourists every day. Architecturally fascinating because the Spanish retained some of the Inca constructions while adding to them, locals will happily point out that the old Inca walls are structurally far more powerful and will compare them to the crumbling Spanish additions.

The famous twelve-point Inca stone

Your first stop should be the market, where you can spend hours dawdling from stall to stall, marvelling at the dozens of types of corn, potatoes and spices on offer. Don´t be tempted by the stalls selling handicrafts and clothes: there are far superior shops lining the steep streets on the way to San Blas.

San Blas is a beautiful network of narrow cobbled streets, small squares and church spires elevated over the historic centre of the city. The area boasts some fantastic restaurants and cafes as well as this modern homage to Mother Earth which I found...

Arequipa and the Colca Canyon, Peru

2011-11-19T12:42:00.000-08:00

Residents of Arequipa are so proud of their city that they even have their own passports, claiming Arequipa cannot possibly be part of Peru. It´s certainly a beautiful place, often called the ciudad blanco because the colonial architecture is made of white sillar stone (a volcanic rock), while the El Misti volcano overlooks the city. For good views and picturesque alleyways, make a trip to Barrio San Lazaro.

Arequipa's principal attraction is the Santa Catalina Monastery. A city within a city, the convent consists of a 20,000sqm network of cloisters, rooms and even roads with vividly painted walls.

The city´s focal point is the main square, best admired from a rooftop or balcony of one of the many restaurants facing the cathedral. For a unique experience, have a meal at Sonccollay (Portal de San Agustin 149). Its chef has been devoted to pre-Inca cuisine for many years, denouncing onion, garlic and oil and exclusively cooking in clay pots over a fire. The food is delicious and the chef is a true character.

Arequipa is a good jumping-off point for Colca, the largest canyon in the world at 3,500m at its deepest point. It is a great place from which to admire Inca terraces, still in use by farmers today, as well as early morning condors.

Lake Titicaca, border of Peru & Bolivia

2011-11-18T09:19:00.000-08:00

The highest lake in the world sits on the border of Peru and Bolivia, but for locals it has greater significance because Incan mythology states that the world was created here. Its mythical connotations and breath-taking views make Lake Titicaca a truly special destination.

Sunset in Copacabana, Bolivia

Not far from Puno in Peru are the floating Uros islands, which pre-Incan people constructed out of reeds to escape colonisation. Today they act more as a tourist attraction, although many people maintain that they are still inhabited.

It's also worth visiting Taquile, a hilly island with its own laws. It was used as a prison until 1970 and nowadays gives an interesting insight into the traditional lives of its residents, who still live by the Inca moral code and haven't been influenced by mainland modernity.

Coroico, Bolivia

2011-11-12T18:30:00.000-08:00

Three hours from La Paz in a cramped minivan you arrive in the tropics, that's if you survive the journey along the world's most dangerous road. The pleasant climate is a welcome break for those who have spent time in the harsh conditions of the altiplano and Coroico is a great place to thaw and recharge the batteries.

A good day trip is to the river of Vagante, around two and a half hours walk from the town. A succession of mini waterfalls make this the perfect place for swimming, bathing and diving. You can also climb Uchumama to see the Cloud Forest: at 2112m and with difficult steep terrain it's no easy feat, but the vegetation on the way is stunning.

Stop by Carla's Garden Pub (Calle Adalid Linares) for wifi, cocktails and activities information - a true haven in the tropics.

La Paz, Bolivia

2011-11-07T18:04:00.000-08:00

In La Paz, life is played out on the streets. Clothes are washed in drains, dinner is served on the pavements and markets are rife with the sights and smells of the urban populace. Rituals to Pachamama spontaneously spring up in side streets. While some may find La Paz overwhelming, it is this very joie de vivre that gives it its identity.

To get the best view of the sprawling city set against the dramatic mountains, climb up Mirador Killi Killi.

For culture, the Museo Nacional de Etnografia y Folklore (www.musef.org.bo, Calle Ingavi 916) has an outstanding collection of textiles and masks.

For less culture and more muscle go to see the uniquely Bolivian quirk known as Cholitas Wrestling (www.cholitaswrestling.com); highly theatrical female wrestling matches every Sunday.

The San Pedro de Atacama to Uyuni tour

2011-11-06T13:12:00.000-08:00

Salt mines

Llamas in the middle of the Salar. Are they playing or fighting?

Isla Incahuasi

Sunrise on the Salar

Flamingo watching

Alpacas at dawn

Laguna Colorada

Laguna Verde

The Salar de Uyuni in Bolivia´s altiplano region is a popular destination because of its claim as the world´s largest salt flat. While most tours depart from and return to the small town of Uyuni, going from San Pedro de Atacama in Chile is a much more enriching experience. Not only is it an easy way to cross the border into Bolivia, but the route also includes some stunning lagoons, including the Laguna Colorada, Laguna Verda and Laguna Honda. There are also ample opportunities to observe flamingos close up, as well as llamas and vicuñas. After entering the Salar itself, the final stop is Incahuasi, an island in the middle of the Salar covered in cacti, with great views across the salt flat. You also have the opportunity to spend the night in a David Lynch-esque hotel in the middle of nowhere, made entirely of salt, where anything could happen...

Ponta dos Ganchos, Brazil

2011-10-29T14:04:00.000-07:00

Did you know there are over a hundred types of Brazilian fruits? And that´s not counting the vegetables. You´re sure to try at least some of these exotic ingredients at Ponta dos Ganchos, an exclusive island resort off the coast of Southern Brazil.

Although the menu is a vibrant celebration of the variety of Brazilian ingredients, it plays second fiddle to the resort´s breath-taking surroundings. Situated in a secluded fishing village which sprung out of the whaling boom over 200 years ago, the hotel is surrounded by mountains, coved beaches and fishing boats. An air of tranquility wafts around the island.

Guests are treated to private bungalows, complete with sea view. Not only did I have 230m²all to myself, I also had a jacuzzi, sauna, therapeutic mattress, nespresso machine and an infinity pool which seemingly plunged into the sea. It was difficult to venture outside when I had these luxuries to indulge in, but I eventually dragged myself to the James Bond-esque private beach for a stint in a canoe. The freedom of paddling around the ocean was fantastic until I capsized!

Starting with whale watching and rafting and ending with oyster catching and private dining on a separate island, you won´t get bored as long as you can bear to leave the creature comforts of your bungalow. I haven´t even mentioned the 24-hour gym or home cinema, or the fact that all food and drink within the resort including the mini-bar (apart from alcohol) is included in the room rate, so you don´t have to worry about racking up a huge bill on check-out.

What Ponta dos Ganchos does best is to provide an intimate atmosphere without stifling its guests. There is always a creative solution to every dilemma, and I for one hope to be returning soon!

San Pedro de Atacama, Chile

2011-10-24T18:40:00.000-07:00

To San Pedro de Atacama, an oasis town in the Chilean desert where nature is the artist. It´s easy to see why Salvador Dali visited this region, with its dramatic landscapes, intense colours and cloudless sky.

With a wealth of excursions available into the desert, don´t miss sunset in the Valle de la Luna and Valle de la Muerte, where the landscape shares close similarities to that of Mars, having acted as a training base for spaceships. Float in the Laguna Cejar, a lake with a high salt content, or take an early morning dip at the hot spring by the Tatio Geysers, themselves an interesting spectacle at dawn. Trek through Cactus Valley and end the day with a picnic in Rainbow Valley, where minerals in the rocks make the walls multi-coloured, creating the perfect set for a Doctor Who episode. BBC take note.

Santiago, Chile

2011-10-22T12:59:00.000-07:00

Chile has always appealed to me because of its unique geography: it´s a long and thin sliver sandwiched between the Andes and the ocean, with glaciers in the south and desert in the north.

Santiago makes for a good starting point for exploring this fascinating country, renowned for the high quality of life its residents enjoy. Soak up the air of calm which hangs over the city by going for a stroll along Andres Bello near Manuel Montt metro station, where you can see the Andes dramatically rising out of the ground, and catch glimpses of snow-capped peaks.

See some contemporary chilean art along Avenida Alonso de Cordova in Vitacura, where galleries are housed in three storey warehouses.

For chilean handicrafts get the metro to the end of the line at Los Domenicos. Cross the green square and enter the Centro Artesanal Los Domenicos. While it has a strong feel of being principally a tourist attraction, it´s a fantastic place to come into contact with thousands of textiles, crafts, art, jewellery and food from Chile.

The Museo Chileno de Arte Precolombino (Bandera 361) is worth a visit for its stunning collection of artefacts and informative texts.

For lunch head to Mercado Central, a market with a vast metal roof that was built in Birmingham in the 1880s. It´s full of stalls spilling over with fresh produce as well as many restaurants serving some of the finest meals in the city, all vying for your custom. At dinner time choose a restaurant on Lastarria near the Universidad Catolica metro, where world class eateries sit side by side with fast food outlets.

Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

2011-10-15T18:05:00.000-07:00

Tijuca - mass drumming session

Rio is blanketed in street art

Copacabana

Impressoes de Lapa live jazz

Sugarloaf Mountain

Enjoying the view

Praia do Flamengo

Lapa

Escadaria Selaron

Bring back the Bondi

Samba in the square

The gem on Brazil´s coastline, Rio de Janeiro is an inspiring hub of creativity. It´s difficult not to get sucked in by its buzzing energy, whether you see it through tramps dancing to samba in the streets, communities campaigning for local causes, or artist collectives animatedly discussing new directions over a beer. Don´t be put off by stories of danger and violence: Rio is a relaxed city at heart and you´ll be made to feel comfortable. Whatever you come to see in Rio, you´ll find it delivered to you with aplomb.

Rio´s burgeoning contemporary art scene is evident in the numerous small galleries that line its streets. Impressões de Lapa (Rua de Lapa 102) recently evolved into a gallery from a small graphic studio, and is now innovating further by showcasing live jazz, a rarity in Rio, on Tuesday nights.

The popularity of Samba is not to be underestimated. Its beat echoes around the streets of Rio at all hours, but for the real deal head to Roda de Samba da Pedra do Sal (Rua Argemiro Bulcao) on a Monday night, when the square is stormed by swathes of Samba enthusiasts, who sing and dance along to the band in the middle.

Alternatively, experience this Brazilian obsession at a Samba school. Each area of Rio has one, and they are run similarly to football clubs: each has their own colours, t-shirts, sponsors, dedicated fans and even a stadium. Tijuca hosts free rehearsals every Thursday and parties on Saturdays with Brazilian barbecue included.

A walk around Lapa is essential. Take in the street art, visit a studio and marvel at the Escadaria Selaron, a true labour of love.

Santa Teresa is also a must during any trip to Rio. A bohemian neighbourhood perched on a hill, cobbled streets wind their way past crumbling mansions offering excellent views of the city. The tramlines are a sad reminder of the emblematic bondinho, which until last month connected the area to Lapa but was closed following a fatal derailment. Support for the campaign to bring it back is strong.

The Jardim Botanico makes for an interesting lesson in Brazilian ecology, buts it´s the Parque Lage next door that deserves more of your time. It also hosts an art school, aquarium and cafe once used by Snoop Dogg for a video.

Of course time on the beach should also be scheduled but however you spend your time in Rio de Janeiro, you´ll be itching to come back again (literally, thank you mosquitos).

Buenos Aires, Argentina

2011-10-07T11:01:00.001-07:00

Buenos Aires is a city that takes some getting used to. At first sight it is hectic, sprawling and dirty. Roads are up to ten lanes wide, pavements are narrow and men gather on every corner to hiss at passing girls. Yet it retains a heart of gold, most visible on the subte, the underground railway, where passengers applaud every busker and willingly reach into their wallets for them.

The area that most visitors will have heard of is La Boca, famous for its football stadium and the Caminito, a network of streets characterised by colourful houses created by the artist Benito Quinquela Martín. Although the area is criticised by locals for being a tourist trap, it's well worth seeing as it' essentially functions as a huge open-air art gallery. Don't miss the urban art adorning the walls of lesser known Garibaldi, which has a disused rail track running through it.

San Telmo is also known for its street art. Many galleries fill this area, my favourite of which is laguanacazul (Defensa 677), a two-floor space which exhibits and sells contemporary and indigenous pieces and acts as a space for social discussion.

The upper-class neighbourhoods of Recoleta, Palermo and Puerto Madero are all worth visiting. Recoleta is dog-walking central but is home to a fantastic cemetery (Avenida Quintana and Junín) and a variety of museums.

Palermo is the city's shopping destination and also has some excellent restaurants. A worthy contender for the city's best steak lies here; Miranda (Costa Rica 5602).

There is also an excellent neighbourhood deli, Caicayen, on the corner of Paraguay and Uriarte, which sells delicious and cheap salads, tarts, breads and cakes as well as ten different varieties of empañadas. For shopping, the junction of Gurruchaga and Costa Rica is a good place to start.

Puerto Madero makes a nice setting for a stroll along the docks. If you've got cash to splash this is the place to go for a good meal.

When it all gets too much, take the train to Tigre, a riverside town one hour away from Buenos Aires. Here you can go for a cruise, take a walk along the banks or visit the various museums on offer, including the Museo des Artes.

Stay at the Hostel Terrazas Estoril (Avenida de Mayo 1385), a small, clean and friendly hostel on the top floor of a beautiful building. The roof terrace is a great spot for breakfast, overlooking the city below.

Geneva, Switzerland

2011-09-29T15:23:00.001-07:00

Geneva is an important financial centre and also houses one of the main headquarters of the UN. It is ranked as one of the most expensive cities in the world, yet the pace of life here is very calm and its residents enjoy a very high quality of life. It’s understandable when you experience the easy-going nature of its inhabitants and the inherent peace of its landscape.

It’s a perfect picture of tranquillity and Swiss efficiency, nestled between the Alps and the vast lake. With just a few hours to explore, I headed straight for the lake, guided by the 70m-high jet of water bursting out of the fountain in the middle. The panorama is gorgeous, with boat masts set against the silhouette of the mountain-range. A jetty juts out into the lake on one side, marked with a sign that reads Bains des paquis. By day the deck is filled with people sunbathing, paddling and fishing, while at night a crowd gathers to enjoy food, drink and music on the water.

Boats on Lake Geneva

Sunseekers gather by day

The lake is transformed by night

Crossing the bridge takes you into the old town, where the cathedral is situated. This is also the main shopping area which includes some fabulous restaurants, though we chose to eat at La Grappe d’Or (19 rue des pâquis) for its side-street location and friendly owners. The pizzas are made from the freshest ingredients and the dough is wonderfully tender.

Terrasse Agrippa-d'Aubigne in the old town

If you have cash to splash, treat yourself to breakfast at the Grand Hotel Kempinski (19 Quai du Mont-Blanc). The buffet includes scrambled eggs served in individual Le Creuset pots as well as champagne, not to mention the scrumptious selection of pastries, all served on a terrace overlooking the lake. You won’t regret it, and it will make you wonder why you settle for that soggy bowl of cornflakes back home.

Early morning view of Lake Geneva from the terrace

Nice, France

2011-07-31T15:07:00.001-07:00

It’s all in the name with this one: Nice is just that. Situated on the Côte d’Azur its romance and beauty is like no other.

A stroll along the Promenade des Anglais will take you past various bars, pebbled beaches and numerous “vélo bleu” bike hire stations. Even in the rain it’s stunning.

Going inland you’ll soon be swallowed up into the jumbled network of cobbled streets. It’s a wonder how so much is packed into such a small space.

The centre of town is teeming with quirky shops and cafes, where you can spend hours admiring unusual products. Start at Place Centrale and weave your way around.

Loft Galerie (2 rue St Suaire)

O'Chineur (8 Rue Benoit Bunico)

Les Vélos du Vieux (Rue Benoit Bunico)

Head up the hill to the cemetery at the top to see baroque-style tombstones dramatically set against the mountainous landscape.

Enjoy a coffee on the characterful Rue Saint François de Paule and watch the world go by. There is often a flower market here. And finally, if you have enough energy after all this, visit the Musée des Beaux Arts (33 Avenue des Baumettes, http://www.musee-beaux-arts-nice.org/) - not only for the art collection but also for the concerts in the courtyard and its stunning surroundings.

Provence, France

2011-07-24T15:23:00.000-07:00

Summer in London can seem like an endless stream of tube delays and rainy days, so as soon as my friend suggested a week in France in July I jumped at the chance. Just a short bus ride away from Marseille Airport lies the sleepy town of Aix-en-Provence, made famous by Cezanne in his many paintings of Mont Sainte-Victoire. Filled with al fresco cafés, fountains and bakeries, it exudes a distinctly French joie de vivre.

Place de Verdun

A novel way of cooling wine on Place des trois Ormeaux

Walking the streets in the heart of town you are met with vibrant sights, smells and sounds at every turn. The Rue d’Italie is bursting with interesting shops selling fresh French produce, such as this wonderful Italian deli, L’Italien (Rue d’Italie 20).

L'Italien: the perfect place to stock up for your picnic

There are dozens of small squares at its core; often the best way to find a restaurant for dinner is to wander from square to square until you find something you like, although you won’t be disappointed if you end up on Place Ramus. We dined at Jacquou le Croquant (Rue de l’Aumône Vieille 2) nearby, where generous portions of excellent Provençale cooking are served in a backyard terrace.

Jacquou le Croquant

Another excellent Aix eatery is the deli-cum-restaurant L’épicerie (Place des trois Ormeaux 3), brimming with interesting produce and serving delicious food to hungry locals.

L’épicerie

A great place to unwind is the Salon de Thé Orienthe (Rue Félibre Gaut 5). Once you’ve taken off your shoes on the way in you are seated on giant cushions at low-level tables and handed an extensive menu of different teas as well as a range of smoothies and fruit juices. There is a cupboard-full of board games and shisha is also available.

Salon de Thé Orienthe

While it is possible to visit Cezanne’s studio and stomping ground, a much more worthwhile day trip is to the tiny village of Vauvenargues at the foot of Mont Sainte-Victoire, about 40 minutes out of Aix by bus. From here it is possible to hike into the mountains or go mountain-biking. Art fans however absolutely must visit the little-known attraction that is Château de Vauvenargues, a castle at the foot of the mountain which was bought by none other than Pablo Picasso in 1958. Having only recently opened to the public, it’s a stunning site which houses many of Picasso’s greatest works, perhaps most significantly his grave. As well as a brilliant wall painting he created in the bathroom, the castle hosts his only remaining studio, which has been preserved as he left it, brushes intact. There is currently an exhibition of his prints. Unfortunately photos are prohibited inside and outside the property, but here is the castle as seen from the village. Booking is essential and can be done through the website (www.chateau-vauvenargues.com)

Château de Vauvenargues

When you are ready to leave Aix behind, head north for wine country, to the tiny hamlet of Crillon le Brave. The hotel encompasses most of the village buildings, a beautiful mesh of 16^th and 17^th century buildings perched on top of a hill that overlooks the stunning scenery of vineyards and olive groves.

The outdoor pool and hidden alcoves make the perfect spots for admiring the view.

The surrounding area of Crillon le Brave is ideal for mountain-biking. Borrow a bike from the hotel and wind your way down the hill; sailing past endless vineyards, through the picturesque village of Bedouin and onwards. We stopped at the Château Pesquié for a tour of the vineyard and a wine tasting before cycling the steep journey back to the hotel. It’s much easier to manage when you are rewarded with such fantastic views!

Château Pesquié, Route de Flassan - BP 6 (www.chateaupesquie.com)

It's all downhill from here

Monte Carlo

2011-05-16T10:11:00.000-07:00

Giant yachts, fast cars, casinos and bling are some of the stereotypes that come to mind when most people think of Monte Carlo. While this may be a true depiction in some respects, it shouldn't be dismissed as just that. The laid-back attitude, great food and wonderful views across the bay make it a must-see destination on any trip around the French Riviera.

Visiting in mid May is the perfect time to experience this part of the world. The weather's just right and there's a sense of the calm before the storm while the town prepares for the Grand Prix at the end of the month.

Decadent architecture can be admired at every turn:

One of the town's best places to stay is the Monte Carlo Bay Hotel & Resort at the edge of the bay. It boasts fantastic views from its 11 floors, a 98m-long sand-bottom lagoon that winds its way around the grounds, and an unforgettable breakfast.

Buddha Bar (Place du Casino, www.buddha-bar.com) makes a great perch for a drink while admiring the view of the port from its balcony and people-watching the young crowds of locals. It's on the back of Casino Square so within easy stumbling distance of the casinos if you are that way inclined. Its interior is a whole different world.

If you're on a budget there's still plenty to do: try the cheap and cheerful Pizzart on the stretch behind the swimming pool (32/33 Route de la Piscine) for great pizza at affordable prices. You can also hire a scooter for the day and zip into the mountains and up and down the coast.

Las Terrazas, Cuba

2011-05-08T14:06:00.000-07:00

Having heard about the self-sustaining eco-village Las Terrazas in the Pinar del Río province, we booked our hotel immediately and headed for the hills.

The idea of Las Terrazas as a sustainable development community project was conceived in the late 1960s, having previously been a popular area for tobacco plantations in the 18^th century. Having gone through a major reforestation project, it now attracts a mix of keen hiking families and couples looking to unwind in the arms of Mother Nature.

Las Terrazas lake after sunset

Hotel Moka (Km 51 Autopista a Pinar del Río, www.hotelmoka-lasterrazas.com) is the village’s hub, where it is possible to book excursions around the area. It’s also a great place to stay, with great views from the top of the hill and affordable luxury in the rooms.

Opting for an excursion that included a “moderate-high difficulty” trek up the mountain that was once a training ground for Che Guevara’s men, followed by lunch at the Baños de San Juan, turned out to be a winning choice. Along the way our guide regaled us with stories about the region’s history and wildlife, and we were rewarded with an incredible view across the island from the peak. It was the descent that was the hardest part but after 4 hours in the mountains we finally arrived at the Baños de San Juan, a cluster of natural pools and mini waterfalls where both locals and tourists come to jump off the rocks into the water and cool off in the shade.

Baños de San Juan

Our day was rounded off perfectly with dinner at El Romero (Terraza 170, Edificio 5), the village’s gourmet veggie eatery which aims to grow and cultivate as many of its ingredients as possible. This lends its dishes a fresh and distinct flavour that’s unforgettable. Order small portions of everything on the food menu and you won’t be disappointed, but be more cautious with the drinks. Make sure you book in advance as there is a constant stream of visitors going through the door every evening.

Farm animals roam free

A pair of dogs taking time out in the shade

We said goodbye to the village by flying over it on the zip wires which run across the village; over the rooftops, the lake and through the forest. We then went down to the lake by the Viazul coach stop where we savoured the last few hours on a boat and hanging off the trees that droop over the water.

Viñales, Cuba

2011-04-24T09:52:00.000-07:00

No trip around Cuba is complete without a few days’ stopover in Viñales. The valley within a valley is surrounded by prehistoric mountain ranges that have formed peculiar mounds in the landscape. This is also one of the lushest green areas on the island.

The best view of the mountains can be observed from the restaurant in the Hotel La Ermita (Carretera de Ermita Km 2). The food isn’t particularly good but it’s well worth going for the stunning sunsets that can be seen from the terrace. Words cannot describe how beautiful the landscape looks when sheets of rain fall in the distance, so I’ll let the photos illustrate this.

The village of Viñales makes a great base for exploring the rest of the valley. We stayed with Mario and Maria at Villa La Cubana (Rafael Trejo 92, T: 48-796134), and had the whole first floor of the house to ourselves, complete with patios out front and back. Our hosts were the most welcoming and helpful people we met on our trip, not to mention the incredible food we enjoyed there, including pancakes. Spending evenings on the patio with a can of Cristal (Bucanero for the boy), watching horse-and-carts winding their way down the road, is one of my favourite memories of the trip.

The village’s best attraction is the Jardin Botanico de Caridad (end of Salvador Cisnero), a small but lovingly tended botanical garden at the end of the main road, run by twin sisters. Everything from pineapple, cocoa, banana and star fruit are grown here as well as tons of other varieties a London girl like myself could not identify.

If you only have time to do one excursion make it Cayo Jutias, a secluded cay 1 hour’s drive away from Viñales. This quiet strip of white sand and clear torquoise waters is as close to paradise as I have ever come! Look out for a guy coming round who can take you snorkelling for 15CUC.

Trinidad, Cuba

2011-04-17T04:23:00.001-07:00

Just over five and a half hours’ away from Havana by coach is the sleepy town of Trinidad. The old colonial town has been beautifully preserved and retains an air of tranquillity that is harder to find in Havana.

The Plaza Mayor is the town’s focal point, attracting musicians, craft-sellers and proprietors of paladars (most likely ones that have not obtained a licence).

Some of the country’s best craft ware can be found on Trinidad’s streets and front rooms.

The steps to the right of the Church of the Holy Trinity in Plaza Mayor lead up to the Casa de la Musica. In the evenings, the cafes and crowds spill out onto the steps to watch free salsa shows in the open air.

Continuing up the hill further away from the Plaza Mayor will bring you to the town’s finest paladar, Estela (Simón Bolívar 557). Tables are set in the owners’ leafy, atmospheric courtyard and the mojitos are delicious. We received a crab paté on the house before enjoying the house specialty; lamb stew. Homemade coconut ice-cream finished off the meal nicely.

Follow the dirt track further up the hill and you will arrive at the town’s only nightclub, which just happens to be in a massive cave! While the trance might not be to everyone’s taste, Ayala has to be visited for its novelty.

Discoteca Ayala, Finca Santa Ana

For the best view of the town and surrounding mountains head up the tower in the National Museum of the Struggle against Bandits. We were halfway up when a storm struck.

National Museum of the Struggle against Bandits, Calle Fernando Hernández, corner of Piro Guinart

Trinidad is only 20 minutes away from one of the finest white sand beaches on the island, Playa Ancon. The Trinibus will take you there and back for a couple of pesos. Keep an eye out for the coconut seller, who will hand you a coconut with a straw and then come back to break the shell open for you when you’re done drinking.

Getting to Trinidad
Viazul buses depart from Havana twice daily and take 5h 45min (www.viazul.cu)

Havana, Cuba

2011-04-14T13:56:00.000-07:00

Cuba is a country on the brink of change. With a gradual relaxation of state regulations, its people are beginning to earn more, and foreign visitors can gain unprecedented access to the heart of cuban culture.

One of the most exciting recent changes has been the state’s agreement for locals to rent out parts of their homes to travellers, called casas particulares. One of the best ones we stayed at is located in Havana Vieja, the old town, and belongs to Eugenio y Fabio. Literally everything in this place is antique, and there is even a roof terrace bursting with greenery.

Eugenio y Fabio, San Ignacio 656, between Jesus Maria and Merced.
E: fabio.quintana@infomed.sld.cu T: (537) 862 9877

Havana’s streets exude the hustle and bustle of daily life; vintage American Chevrolets wheeze past crumbling colonial exteriors…

…strays sleep in the middle of the pavement, and you’re never too far away from a fruit seller.

To get out of the thick of it, head to the breezy Malecon, the long wall which winds itself along the coast, connecting the east to the west. This is also the place to go with a bottle of rum after dark if you want to get to know the locals.

For the city’s best paladar, restaurants run from people’s homes, book a table at La Guarida. The sumptuous mansion was used as a set for the film Fresa y Chocolate and its food is internationally renowned for its ingenuity. In a country where more often than not you only have a choice between chicken and pork, the variety of dishes and combination of flavours is a refreshing change.

La Guarida, Concordia 148, between Gervasio and Escobar. T: (537) 863-7351 (www.laguarida.com)

While practically every doorway opens into a front-room art gallery, head to the quirky Callejon de Hamel in Centro Havana for a clustered alley of studios, sculptures and colourful murials that won’t disappoint.

Finally, to reiterate the point that strays are everywhere, here are some photos of their more amusing antics.

Krakow

2011-02-28T14:23:00.000-08:00

I've written about Poland several times already, but haven't mentioned Krakow. The southern city, which lies at the foot of the Tatra mountains, will welcome you with its bohemian spirit and relaxed vibe. With a large proportion of the city's centre preserved as a UNESCO heritage site, there are plenty of cobbled streets and underground caverns to explore, not to mention some of Poland's tastiest Pierogi eateries.

Here's a selection of some of Krakow's best places to keep warm in winter, in my opinion:

Bunkier Sztuki Cafe, pl. Szczepański 3a (www.bunkier.com.pl)
A Viennese-style cafe housed in a conservatory that belongs to the "bunker" gallery next door.

Piwnica pod Baranami, Rynek Główny 27 (www.piwnicapodbaranami.krakow.pl)
A cellar jazz bar that has sat on the main square since the 50s. Here you'll find a treasure trove of quirky ornaments, daily jazz concerts and a friendly barman that's always drunk. Try the warm beer with raspberry syrup (trust me).

Fabryka, ul. Zabłocie 23 (www.fabrykaklub.eu)
It's well worth crossing the river to get to this stunning venue in a former factory. DJs, artists and musicians come from all over the world to play here, and some of Krakow's finest promoters choose to put on their parties here.

Singer, ul. Estery 22
Whoever opened this place must have a real thing for old Singer sewing machines. This place is full of them. It's also the heart of Kazimierz, the old Jewish quarter at the centre of Krakow's bohemian nightlife.

Stary Port, ul. Straszewskiego 27 (www.staryport.com.pl/krakow)
Blues in a room that looks like a barge, what better way to round off your trip? The bar also has guest beers, and people look at you weirdly if you order a glass of wine.

Rome

2010-12-27T14:40:00.000-08:00

Rome is laden with cliches that hark back to its classical architecture, Italian cuisine and perfect coffee. While that may well be an accurate representation in many ways, there is much more to the city than merely the tourist traps.

I spent a mad 24 hours rushing around the city back in November trying to take in the sights and searching for the ultimate cappuccino, and I'm proud to say I managed to achieve this, by a minor miracle. Having stopped by the Fontana di Trevi, the Pantheon, the Forum, the Spanish Steps and even had time to get to the Colosseum, we arrived at the tiny Sant'Eustachio cafe (Piazza dei Caprettari 65), having heard it is home to the world's best coffee. By the looks of the long queue outside the door, we weren't the only ones who were curious about this bold claim. It was so worth the wait though; the cappuccino was divine. (www.santeustachioilcaffe.it/)

Head to the area around Piazza dei Parlamento for authentic delis stuffed with fresh meat, cheese and bread as well as top of the range design shops where it's easy to while away the hours browsing Italy's latest designs.

Watch out for the flocks of starlings in late Autumn as they migrate, encircling the city in vast swathes. Tip: always carry an umbrella.

For Rome's bohemian district cross the river into Trastevere, where the wonky cobbled streets are brimming with restaurants and bars full of locals and the shops stay open late. We stumbled across an incredible unassuming restaurant on the corner of a neighbourhood square, where the menu included such unpretentious offerings as "pasta with cheese and black pepper" and "rabbit with salad", both dishes which were cooked to perfection and cost us next to nothing in a city where money doesn't go far.

Our final stop was the Crypt of the Capuchin Friars (via Veneto 27): the ultimate alternative tourist destination in Rome. The skeleton parts of the friars have been artfully arranged into formations along the walls and ceilings of the crypt since 1631, when the bodies were first transported to the present site. The result is a fascinating display of skulls and pelvises but unfortunately as no cameras are allowed you will have to see it for yourself to believe it (www.cappucciniviaveneto.it/TheCrypt.htm).

Unfortunately this is all I had time for on my whirlwind visit but I did learn that the old cliche is true: there really is no other city quite like Rome.

Ghent

2010-07-19T12:11:00.000-07:00

A strange thing happens around this time of year in the sleepy Belgian town of Ghent.

The medieval town's locals take 10 days off work for an annual festival called...10 days off. Madness ensues in the form of spontaneous street theatre, whacky circus acts, eccentric performance art, live music on every corner and all night parties in the clubs. Being home to 2manydjs, this town knows exactly how to party.

What shall we do with a drunken sailor...

Dancing in the streets

A performer preparing his mouth for singing in the Koning Albert Park

Admiring the view

The town's architecture varies from historic canal-side houses

to vast walls clad in vibrant street art.

The festivities culminate in a concert that straddles the River Leie, with the stage actually on the bridge and the dancefloor on its banks. Genius!

Many activities are free and for those that aren't you can buy separate tickets, so if you can't handle 10 days of clubbing and culture, you don't have to.

www.10daysoff.be

Barcelona

2010-07-14T06:07:00.000-07:00

Barcelona is probably my favourite city in Europe. You can't beat its laid back welcoming vibe, rich history, multi-cultural lifestyle and stunning landscape. And don't even get me started on the food. Here's a selection of photos from a trip with my boyfriend in April 2009, which prove that even when it's not hot and sunny there's tons to be getting on with.

Rain on C/Montcada. Textil Cafe at number 12 does unbeatable Catalan hot chocolate.

Palau Guell (C/Nou de la Rambla 3) is in my opinion Gaudi's finest work and makes for the perfect day trip. (www.palauguell.cat)

Font Magica de Montjuic (Placa Carles Buigas 1) - the art deco fountain works its magic on summer evenings with an incredible display and an 80s soundtrack.

The Jardi Botanic (C/Doctor Font i Quer) are worth a visit on a lazy afternoon. (www.jardibotanic.bcn.cat)

You never know what you'll find in Barcelona's side streets.

Barcelona prides itself on its many quirky bars, which provide a refreshing change to the uniformity of many UK establishments. The one that deserves to be singled out is Marsella (C/Sant Pau 65). Open since 1820, the bar has been serving absinthe to locals including Picasso and Gaudi in their day. Inconspicuous from the outside (there is no signage, the windows are covered, and the doorman is a balshy Barcelonite in a tracksuit), once you're in you can admire the dusty unopened century-old bottles of absinthe lining the walls and the ancient chandeliers hanging from the ceiling by a thread.

Head up the steep hill beyond the old Olympic stadium and you'll be rewarded with this view.

The motto that Barcelona thrives on.

Open'er 2010

2010-07-06T14:26:00.000-07:00

I've just come back from Open'er 2010 and can report the annual Polish festival is going stronger than ever. With a bill that included the likes of Nas & Damien Marley, Hot Chip, Dead Weather and Grace Jones and white sands within walking distance, this should be a standard stop-off point on everyone's summer agenda. The sun is seemingly either rising or setting which lends an ephemeral quality to proceedings. Hopefully these photos alone will convince you.

1-4 July 2010, Babie Doly, Gdynia, Poland (www.opener.pl/en)

Check out my photos from Open'er 2007 here

Malta

2010-07-01T11:57:00.000-07:00

Go to Malta! It's not just for old people - it's the perfect place for getting lost on long walks which is ok because it's a small island so you'll never go too far; there's great views over to Africa from the cliff tops, and the beaches are a world away from busy Brighton at the first crack of sun.

Best of the Fests

2010-06-27T12:43:00.001-07:00

With Glastonbury kicking off the festival season for 2010 this weekend, I've done a round-up of my favourite festivals in Europe, starting with Melt! Festival in Ferropolis (about two hours away from Berlin), because it probably counts as one of the most epic weekends of my life. After that, in no particular order...

1. Melt! Festival
Best for: A non-stop weekend of relentless fun, including a 24-hour rave beach and a secret warehouse all in an exceptional venue.

16-18 July 2010, Ferropolis, Germany (www.meltfestival.de)

2. Sziget Festival
Best for: An eclectic entertainment programme taking place on an island

(Apologies for the awful images, I only had a camera phone on me).

11-16 August 2010, Obudai Island, Budapest, Hungary (www.sziget.hu)

3. Dour Festival
Best for: Belgian beer and a friendly crowd

15-18 July 2010, Dour, Belgium (www.dourfestival.be)

4. Benicassim Festival
Best for: Beach, big bands and the silent disco

15-18 July 2010, Benicassim, Spain (http://fiberfib.com/)

5. Beach Break Live
Best for: Student shenanigans

14-18 June 2010, Pembrey Country Park, South Wales (www.beachbreaklive.com)

6. Bestival
Best for: Fancy dress

9-12 September 2010, Robin Hill Country Park, Isle of Wight (www.bestival.net)

7. Big Chill Festival
Best for: Chilling, sunbathing and eating delicious food

5-8 August 2010, Eastnor Castle Deer Park (www.bigchill.net)

Open'er

2010-06-24T14:37:00.000-07:00

I've just found out that I am going to the amazing Polish music festival "Open'er" in Gdynia next weekend! I went 3 years ago and had a great time at the old coastal airbase.

Here's a taster.

1-4 July 2010, Babie Doly, Gdynia, Poland (www.opener.pl)

Warsaw

2010-06-21T12:22:00.001-07:00

It was only a matter of time before a post on Poland would crop up. Being Polish I tend to visit at least once a year, and every time it's changed so much since my last stay.

The scars of WWII are still plainly visible in many parts of the city, most of all Praga, where much of Roman Polanski's Pianist was filmed.

If history's your thing, or even if it's not, the Muzeum Powstania Warszawskiego (Grzybowska 79) is well worth a look - a very well curated museum about the Warsaw Uprising with a very good pre-war cafe inside.

The Instytut Awangardy (Al. Solidarnosci 64 m. 118) can be found at the top of an old housing block in the city centre, complete with ancient yet miraculously still functioning lift. The one time home and studio of Avant-Gardists Edward Krasinski and Henryk Stazewski has been preserved in the same way they left it and offers an invaluable insight into their life and work. You can also get onto the roof, which has some great views across the city.

Warsawians have cafe culture down to a T, matching great hosting skills with well-styled, cosy interiors. The best places for coffee and cake are in quite unassuming locations. For a truly laid-back vibe, amazing coffee and unique retro furnishings, head to Filtry Cafe (Juliana Ursyna Niemcewicza 3) or the cellar of the Galeria Zacheta (Plac Stanislawa Malochowskiego 3).

If you've got cash to splash and fancy something more lavish, Blikle (Nowy Swiat 35) has been serving artisanal pastries and mouth-watering pierogi since 1869, and still makes the tastiest cakes in town.

So as you can see it's worth getting the tram further out to explore these hot spots for authentic Polish culture as it is today.

Berlin

2010-06-16T11:31:00.000-07:00

The city that promises a boho vibe and cutting-edge style is buzzing with things to see and do year-round. I visited both last summer and winter, and had two very different experiences indeed. Let's start with winter.

Mid-January, - 40 °C - that's during the day - bicycles trapped in unbreakable mountains of ice and stories of pensioners dying from the cold would cause a storm in the UK, so it's a good thing those Germans are so efficient. Their survival tactic is to hide underground during the winter months, where you can find a plethora of cafes, bars and clubs in unique surroundings.

Creperie Manouche (Grimmstr. 23)

The best places are closely guarded secrets among locals, who are very proud of their eclectic nightlife. Watch out in places like Kreuzberg, where you may experience a frosty welcome if you make it obvious you are not from their yard, though don't let this be a deterrent to you - for Kreuzberg hosts a wealth of amazing bars, especially on Weserstrasse.

The best bars on this road will not necessarily look like bars from the street, but rather like someone's living room. Be bold and walk in, heading straight for the rickety staircase towards the back of the room. As you descend you will begin to hear the beats and feel the warmth from the crowd down below.

Fuchs und Elster (Weserstr. 207)

In the hot summer months people emerge from their cellars and flock to the beautiful Tiergarten, with its zoo, lake and phenomenal restaurants, or Kneipe.

If you want to do something touristy I would recommend the Bundestag (Platz der Republik 1, Unter den Linden 50). It's worth the queue for the views from the top and the stunning architecture.

No account of Berlin would be complete without a reference to Tacheles (Oranienburger Str. 54-56a). The derelict five-storey office block that has functioned as a squat for decades is packed with artists' studios, galleries and even a cinema, while the sand-covered courtyard offers a late night bar with music every night. The authorities have been threatening to tear the building down for years now, so catch it while it's still standing.

I have inevitably missed out tons of Berlin's finest establishments - including the whacky Michelberger Hotel lobby (Warschauer Straße 39 / 40), Panorama Bar (Rüdersdorfer Straße 70) and I could go on but I will leave it to you to explore yourself - that is what Berlin is all about.

Malcesine

2010-06-13T10:16:00.001-07:00

Malcesine is most commonly known as a wedding destination. But if you're not getting hitched, there's plenty of reasons to go anyway.

1. The perfect weather

When it's warm and sunny, there's few better places to be than by a lake in the heart of a valley.

2. The gorgeous food

Local restaurants don't normally take bookings, so you can wander around the cobbled streets and drop in when you've found somewhere you're happy with. Despite the many tasty pizzas and pasta dishes we ate, my favourite food stop was in a small cafe on the main square, which serves a huge variety of fresh and crispy bruschetta. Yum.

3. The characterful side streets

I spent hours in this antique shop, which stocked everything from 60s mini scooters to 20s bicycles.

4. The nightlife

For a small lake-side town, the quality of its late night establishments is impressive. Staying open until you've had enough, the drinks are cheap and time flies, so you can easily spend all night drinking and chatting to the locals in one of the town's many hidden alleyways.

I would highly recommend Malcesine to anyone looking for a relaxing getaway and delicious food that hasn't yet been conquered by us Brits Abroad. Ladies think hard when you're packing shoes, as the cobbled streets can be a nightmare to overcome in heels!

Bergamo

2010-06-10T14:12:00.001-07:00

I've just come back from Italy, where I flew for a wedding.

The ceremony took place in Lake Garda, which is a bit of a nightmare to get to as there are no nearby airports. We flew in to Bergamo, which is not too far from Milan and is a city worth visiting in itself.

The old town sits on top of a mountain, looking over the streets below. If you don't have enough energy to walk all the way up to the top, you can get on the Furnicular Railway, which I for one found extremely exciting as it felt very Bond film-esque. I kept waiting for Jaws to jump out.

I found a beautiful shop on the main street in Citta Alta (the old town), which had crates of dried chillies and aubergines by the entrance and inside stocked all manner of quirky homewares and baskets full of shoes.

Down below you can buy yourself a giant cheese (and a giant loaf of bread to go with it from the stall opposite) from the local market on weekends.

Our last night in Bergamo ended with a pleasant surprise. On our way to Bar Shake (Borgo Santa Caterina 30/A), we came across the Galleria d'Arte Moderna e Contemporanea, which had a late night opening. The galleries were open for free, while bands, films, drinks and an extensive free buffet were taking place in the courtyard.

What a perfect ending to such a fantastic mini-break!

Hello

2010-06-10T12:56:00.000-07:00

and welcome to my blog, which will act as a space for my travel photos along with some tips for my favourite places to eat, drink and see around the world.

There are so many beautiful spots abroad that I have had the pleasure of capturing on camera having stumbled across them on my many voyages of discovery, and I want to share them with you all so you can experience it for yourselves.

Please do get in touch if you want any more information about any of the places you see here on the blog!